Taste of Japan 2003
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2003.12.23
Setagaya’s famous “Rag Market” observes 425th anniversary

In 1578, the district of Setagaya in Musashi Province (today a residential area in west Tokyo) arranged for a “Raku-ichi,” a place where merchants could freely engage in commerce under the protection of the feudal lord. In those days, a flourishing trade existed in boro, or scraps of cloth, which could be used for patching farming clothes or for weaving into straw sandals. The event was so successful that Setagaya’s “Boro-Ichi,” or Rag Market, became a popular annual event that in 2003 observed its 425th anniversary.

For four days each year -- on December 15-16 and January 15-16 -– Setagaya still holds its Boro-ichi on the same spot where it has always been, along a kilometer-long street past his lordship’s former residence. (The thatched-roof official residence, called the “Daikan Yashiki,” still stands, and has been officially designated a national cultural treasure.)

The “rags” of yore have given way to antique silk kimono and occasionally even French designer goods. On each of the days the market is held, huge crowds, estimated to number as many as 200,000 people, converge on the street to gawk and shop at 700 makeshift stands that offer practically everything imaginable: potted plants, including bonsai (dwarf pines); porcelain and other ceramic goods; used kimono; and old electric appliances such as AM radios from the pre-transistor era. Other stalls hawk old military medals, unusual rocks and fossils, vinyl LP records, antique books, magazines and posters -- almost any type of bric-a-brac imaginable, some rare and even valuable, but mostly just tacky. Still other vendors sell their own original handicrafts, some made right there on the spot.

In addition to being popular with collectors, the December fair is a good time for housewives to stock up on comestibles before the coming New Year, including such items as shichimi-togarashi, a special seven pepper mixture sold in small gourds that are closed with a wooden stopper. Other seasonal items include mochi (a type of chewy cake made from glutinous rice); pickles of all sorts; and traditional Japanese confections.

The Rag Market is great fun. From 9 a.m. to its close at 9 p.m., people of all ages can be seen strolling along munching on walk-away snacks such as oden (a hodgepodge of boiled fish sausages, vegetables and other odds and ends), hot buttered potatoes, cotton candy and cups of hot “amazake,” a sweet beverage made from the dregs of rice wine left over from the brewing process. Local merchants with shops on the street usually suspend their regular business to take part in the fair.



2003.12.01
Hotel accommodates history

During 2003, Tokyo has been observing its 400th anniversary since becoming Japan’s administrative capital. It was in 1603 that Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first Shogun, established his military government in what was then known as Edo. When Emperor Meiji transferred the imperial household from Kyoto in 1869, the city’s name was changed to Tokyo, establishing it as the national capital.

Jumping on the history bandwagon, the Sunshine City Prince Hotel in Tokyo’s Toshima Ward has come up with a package program aimed at history buffs. Named the “Edo Roman Burari Sanpo” (Edo Romantic Leisurely Stroll), the program will feature seminars by Ko Sugiura -- a noted authority on the city’s topography -- using ancient maps of and other materials to provide background for walks around the city’s historic sites.

The first program began on November 22. Following the lecture at 10:30 a.m., participants would partake a meal prepared in traditional Edo-era style, including such dishes as soba (buckwheat noodles) and tofu (bean curd), as described in the works of the late Ikenami Shotaro, a popular writer of historical novels set in Edo.

After lunch, participants will then take the train to the Ueno district (see ancient map), where they will visit such landmarks as the Ueno Toshogu Temple and “Toki no Kane,” a bell featured in the haiku (three line, 17-syllable poem) by the noted Edo-era poet Matsuo Basho that reads:

Hana no kumo
Kane wa Ueno ka
Asakusa ka


Flowery clouds
Does the bell toll in Ueno
Or Asakusa?

The program is limited to a maximum of 50 participants who can take part the seminar, lunch and field only, or, if they choose, spend the night at the Sunshine Prince hotel at a special reduced rate.

The Sunshine Prince hopes to attract members of the older generation, but says the program is open to people of all ages. It plans to continue the events next January, March and May.



2003.10.01
Urbanites converge on "shopping theme parks"

Over the past year, Tokyo has seen three enormous new glittering complexes open their doors to the public.

- The Marunouchi Building, located a short walk from Tokyo Central Station in the city's main business district, been attracted about 20 million visitors since its opening on September 6, 2002. The "Maru Biru" (as it's called) is configured with boutiques and shops on floors 1 through 4, casual restaurants on floors 5 and 6, and swank restaurants on its upper two floors. In the first basement is a delicatessen selling take-away items prepared by the famous restaurants.
- Shiodome City Center, on the site of a former railway marshalling yard located close to the Ginza/Shimbashi area, opened on April 10, 2003. It is adjacent to Caretta Shiodome, which opened last December. The Shiodome complex will eventually encompass no fewer than 13 high-rise buildings, including the headquarters of major television station Nippon TV, one of Japan's leading advertising company Dentsu and other major corporations, apartment blocks and entertainment-shopping facilities.
- Roppongi Hills, the brainchild of real estate magnate Minoru Mori, opened on April 25, 2003. The new complex, covering 11.6 hectare close in an area with many foreign embassies and some of Tokyo's most affluent neighborhoods, includes the 54-story Mori Tower, headquarters of the Asahi TV network, offices, apartments, a hotel, cinema complex, and 200 specialty stores, restaurants and clubs.

With these so-called "shopping theme parks," marketers appear to be aiming at two main groups: affluent singles and members of the post-WW2 baby boomer generation, whose children are now grown and who are now at the peak of their earning powers. The greater Tokyo area already boasts about 20 such facilities and more are in the works. They include high-rise buildings, low-slung shopping malls, and factory outlet style complexes.

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